How to Change Car Fuses

Changing a blown fuse in your car is a relatively simple task.

There's a fine line between tackling a DIY car repair and knowing when to hire a mechanic. Taking on more than you can handle often leads to an expensive repair.

However, some repairs fall within the realm of DIY. Changing a blown car fuse is certainly one of them.

Every car has an instrument panel fuse block containing several fuses that connect and protect the electrical current that powers everything from the air conditioning and radio to the power steering. If one of these features stops working - it's likely due to a blown fuse.

Car fuses typically cost about a $1 at any neighborhood auto parts store.

Use these tips to replace a car fuse on your own.

1. Check the owner's manual

Don't leave anything to chance. Grab your owner's manual and locate the section on the fuse panel.

It should explain everything you need to know, including how to access the panel, and which fuses correspond to different parts of the car.

Most fuses are located on the driver's side dashboard, typically under the steering wheel, or in the glove compartment.

2. Remove the fuse panel

Locate the fuse panel and remove the cover. Most panels come off easily, but you may need a screwdriver.

3. Locate the blown fuse

You'll see several different fuses. Each fuse has a specific color and number on the top indicating the amperage. Your owner's manual should include a diagram explaining which component each fuse controls.

According to DMV.org, a blown fuse will have a broken filament or appear black inside. When you locate the blown fuse, you can pull it out with your hands. Some cars come with a special tool for removing fuses.

4. Replacing a blown fuse

When replacing a blown fuse, make sure the new fuse has the same color and amperage rating.

Replacing a fuse with the wrong amperage rating can cause serious damage to your car's electrical components.

Some fuse panels come equipped with spare fuses. If not, you'll need to buy one. If you're in a pinch, you can swap in a fuse of a lesser-used device, such as the cigarette lighter, as long as it has the same amperage and color.

5. Start the engine

After installing the new fuse and closing the fuse panel, start your car and check if the corresponding electrical device now works.

If not, or if the new fuse blows right after replacement, you'll need to take your car to a mechanic to diagnose the electrical issue.

Have A Safe Haul

A Toyota Guide To Hitching Attachments And Accessories

Your best bet for a safe haul is to use the right hitch and know how to attach it. Below is a quick guide to hitch systems and how they’re used.

Carry Or Distribute?
The most common hitches are weight-carrying and weight-distributing. Both are designed to slide into your vehicle’s towing receiver hitch – found on some trucks and SUVs.
Weight-carrying hitches simply carry all the hitch weight of the trailer. You drop the trailer on, lock it down and go. They’re mostly used with lightweight trailers, such as an ATV or tent trailer.
A weight-distributing hitch is a heavy-duty system that uses distribution bars to spread the load weight more evenly. These hitches increase stability when towing a heavier travel trailer.

Weight-distributing hitches utilize spring bars that help distribute the weight. They are typically matched by the hitch manufacturer to the amount of weight you plan to tow. Sway control devices can be added to help prevent trailers from swaying too much. Hitching up with one of these systems is a complex process. You should have a qualified RV center show you how. Fortunately, once you’ve got it down, it only takes a few minutes to hitch up.

Hitch Classes And Carrying Capacities
The hitch you use depends on the weight you plan to pull and/or the type of hitch receiver on your truck. The various hitch classes and their rated carrying capacities for a load are as follows:

Class I – Up to 2000 lb.
Class II – Up to 3500 lb.
Class III – Up to 6000 lb.
Class IV – Up to 10,000 lb.
Class V – Up to 12,000 lb.

Note: The maximum tongue weight these hitches are designed to accommodate is typically 10% of the actual weight of the trailer (gross weight). Tongue weight is the downward force that the tongue of the trailer applies to the hitch of the tow vehicle.

Trailers light enough to be handled by a Class I or Class II hitch receiver typically don’t need a weight-distributing hitch. A trailer heavy enough to require a Class III or better hitch does. With a weight-distributing hitch in place, the gross trailer weight limits increase: Class III to 10,000 lb.; Class IV to 14,000 lb.; Class V to 17,000 lb. A weight-distributing hitch spreads the load out over the truck and trailer so the receiver doesn’t have to bear all of the weight. That’s why it can handle a larger, heavier trailer.

Make sure your trailer and tow vehicle aren’t overloaded, your tires are properly inflated and you’re using the correct hitch for the job. Whatever hitching system you use, double-check every connection and make safety your number-one priority. That’s your best bet to have a safe haul.